When founders of beauty brands in Africa establish their companies, one of their core aims is to build something extremely sustainable. To do so, a first point of call for the majority is to reach a global market—a market outside of the continent. With leading beauty retailers and conglomerates like Sephora, Estee Lauder, Selfridges positioning themselves as one of the best spaces for beauty brands to tap into a global market, those in Africa are therefore making a go for it. However, this comes with its unique lapse—one built at the very expense of the indigenous consumers and the market they come with. What this means is if a market gaze is cast on a more international audience, local consumers bear the brunt, which makes their market very underexplored.
The globalization versus localization rhetoric of the dynamic and rapidly growing beauty market in Africa presents a unique paradox—a desire for both global and local experiences; striking a balance between these two approaches can be the key to success. This debate lies at the heart of beauty brands' expansion into emerging markets, requiring careful consideration of the right approach for sustainable success.
When Zeze Oriaikhi-Sao founded the skin and body care brand, Malee Cosmetics in South Africa a decade and half ago, one of the goals was to create an African brand that met the global standards of the luxury beauty market, but also very much kept its “African-ness.” “There’s less of a gap now,” she tells BeautyMatter, “but [when I started], there was a huge gap in brands coming out of Africa in terms of the premium/luxury space. At the time, I felt so strongly about our ingredients and our stories. We grew up with them, and I didn’t want to lose that,” she continues. Fourteen years later, Malee has gone on to win its first Hotelier’s Choice Awards, with features in major international publications.
In less than a few years, there has been a meteoric rise of independent beauty brands emerging from Africa—all at a point where they can compete with other global markets. This globalization is often seen as a strategy that enables beauty brands to maintain a consistent identity and product range across markets. For multinational corporations, this approach minimizes the need for significant alterations in supply chain logistics, reducing complexities and costs. Since their major audiences are abroad, brand owners ensure that production and distribution is done abroad, reducing the extortionate cost of logistics when they’re produced and shipped directly from Africa. “A major challenge for brands looking to globalize will forever be funding and distribution channels,” Oriaikhi-Sao says. “The market isn’t so structured, and the big guys have the economic power to create the reach,” she adds.
Global brands bring with them a certain prestige, benefitting their established reputation and consumer trust. When African consumers see these familiar brands, it often conveys a sense of quality and reliability. Globalization ensures that consumers outside of Africa can access the same products that consumers in Africa enjoy, creating a sense of global inclusion and cosmopolitanism.
However, a challenge with this is how critically “foreign” some of these products and ingredients are. Linda Gieskes-Mwamba, the founder of natural skincare brands, Suki Suki Naturals, first encountered issues like texture, consistency, and smell of the products, which took a decent amount of time to achieve and master. “For our first product, most people didn’t like it due to the ingredients we used and the smell it had.” she tells BeautyMatter. “We therefore had to reformulate it because we were really adamant on using ingredients that came from Africa, which will help us connect with our African audience,” she continues.
Localization, though, which is basically adapting products and marketing strategies to cater to specific cultural preferences, plays a pivotal role in forging deeper connections with local consumers. Africa is an incredibly diverse continent with numerous languages, cultures, and beauty traditions. From the Namibian Himba women, for example, who adorn themselves with a mixture of red ochre, animal fat, and herbs, to the Mursi Tribe from South West Ethiopia, who are known for their unique physical adornments, particularly the lip plates they wear. Embracing localization allows brands to tap into this diversity and provide consumers with tailored products that resonate with their unique needs and desires. It extends beyond mere language translations and involves an understanding of the nuances of beauty practices, skin types, and preferences in various regions.
This attention to detail demonstrates a commitment to meeting local needs, fostering trust, and ultimately boosting sales. “Our first wholesale customer was during our first year of business [in 2014], and it was in Mozambique,” Gieskes-Mwamba says. “The following year, we launched with retailers [like Arc Store, likened to Sephora in the US, Woolworth, and Superbalist] in South Africa,” she continues. Moreover, embracing localization can lead to positive social and economic impacts. Collaborating with local suppliers and artisans can stimulate economic growth and promote sustainability. With this in mind, Suki Suki Naturals has become the first African cosmetics brand to be accepted by the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM)-Birimian Accelerator x Africa program. The initiative funds and mentors brands in Africa that show loads of promise and dedication to their work.
Instead of viewing globalization and localization as mutually exclusive, brands can leverage the strengths of each to create a synergy that resonates with consumers. “Our South African market makes up about 70% of our market. We’re grateful for that, although that’s not where we want to be,” Gieskes-Mwamba says. “We’re looking to go deeper into markets like the US and other European countries like the UK and France.” One approach is to offer a core range of globally recognized products while introducing localized variations. This enables brands to maintain their global identity while catering to specific needs.
The supply chain processes and where brands are stocked play a crucial role in achieving the delicate balance between globalization and localization. Brands need to assess the feasibility of sourcing local ingredients, utilizing local manufacturing facilities, and adopting sustainable packaging practices. Local partnerships can minimize logistical challenges, reduce costs, and promote economic development.
With African beauty consumers increasingly looking for products that address their specific skin and hair concerns, brands are therefore diversifying their product lines to accommodate a range of textures, tones, and needs while maintaining a core set of globally popular items. Understanding cultural nuances and values is crucial. Leveraging local traditions and cultural influences can give brands an edge in connecting with consumers. Engaging in socially responsible initiatives, such as supporting local communities, can also create a positive brand image. “Right now, the market is very much consumer driven, and has more disposable income,” Oriaikhi-Sao says. “Presently, the industrialized aspect of the beauty industry is pivotal to a lot of potential economic success in the continent. Think about upskilling, women empowerment, etc.,” she adds.
The African beauty market offers immense opportunities for brands willing to navigate the delicate balance between localization and globalization. While globalization maintains consistency and trust, localization deepens connections and taps into local preferences. Striking the right balance between these two strategies, adapting the supply chain, diversifying product offerings, and tailoring marketing approaches are the keys to success in this diverse and burgeoning market. Brands that can embrace both the global and local facets of Africa's beauty market are best positioned to thrive and make a lasting impact.
